Manicotti with a kick

GRETCHEN’S TABLE

By GRETCHEN McKAY

Pittsburgh Post-Gazette (TNS) I t’s amazing what you find when you (finally) channel your inner Marie Kondo and start clearing your house of junk.

I’ve been in the same Federal-style colonial for 30-plus years, and having raised five kids there, things have piled up over the years.

Our vacation next week will include filling a dumpster with things we no longer need and, in most cases, forgot we even have: all of my college notebooks from Penn State, kids’ toys, dog crates, a moldy tent and a couple of old doors left over from a kitchen renovation.

Then again, I’ve found a few treasures while cleaning out closets and drawers, including a handwritten cookbook my son Jack made in third grade. Stapled between two sheets of construction paper, it includes photocopies of favorite family recipes from his classmates and teachers – everything from orange sherbet pie to shrimp scampi to a cheese dip made with ground beef, Jimmy Dean sausage and Velveeta.

Jack’s contribution of my homemade vodka sauce got some chuckles among parents because it was the only recipe that included alcohol. In my defense, though, it’s only a small amount of vodka – a little more than a shot – and most of it evaporates during cooking, leaving behind just the barest hint of flavor.

All I can say is all five of my kids loved it, though my husband not so much, because I tend to make it pretty spicy. It was, in fact, the first thing my daughter thought of when I offered to make her something to take back home to Northern Virginia after a visit home last weekend.

I’ve come a long way in the kitchen since Jack’s now-battered cookbook came home in his backpack.

For starters, I have learned to appreciate the outstanding flavor of San Marzano tomatoes, which are grown in the Campania region of southern Italy.

The certified authentic variety wearing the “Denominazione d’Origine Protetta” (DOP) label costs a bit more than regular canned tomatoes (OK, a lot more), but their sweet and robust tomato flavor really makes a pasta sauce shine. Considering the pasta is so cheap, it’s worth the extra dollars.

For another, I now know how to make most of the pasta we eat by hand. That includes the light and airy crespelle my much-loved Italian neighbor Josephine Coletti taught me how to make many years ago for my husband’s 50th birthday.

In this recipe, they encase a lush filling made with ricotta and frozen spinach. The vodka sauce goes on top.

Spinach and Cheese Manicotti with Vodka Sauce

For crepes:

4 eggs 1/2 cup water 1/2 cup milk 1 cup flour Pinch of salt For filling:

16-ounce bag frozen chopped spinach, thawed and well drained 15-ounce container ricotta 1/2 cup grated Parmesan 1 cup shredded mozzarella Red pepper flakes For sauce 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or more to taste 2 ounces vodka 1 (28-ounce) can whole San Marzano tomatoes 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon concentrated tomato paste, optional 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving Salt, to taste

Make crepe batter: In a medium bowl, whisk eggs, milk and water together until well combined. Slowly add flour, continually whisking until you have a smooth batter with a texture of heavy cream. Place in refrigerator to rest for at least 30 minutes. (This will make the crepes more tender.)

Prepare filling: Place thawed and drained spinach in a clean dish towel or piece of cheesecloth and squeeze (and squeeze again) to remove any last bits of water. Chop into small pieces and place in a large bowl. Add ricotta, Parmesan, shredded mozzarella and a pinch or two of red pepper flakes. Taste, and add salt if it seems underseasoned.

Make sauce: In a deep skillet, heat butter until melted. Add red pepper flakes and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add vodka all at once (it will bubble up), and stir to combine.

Add tomatoes to pan, crushing them with a fork or potato masher. Simmer, stirring often, until the alcohol cooks off and the tomatoes have broken down, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt.

Stir in heavy cream and tomato paste (if using) and cook until the sauce thickens slightly, about 3 minutes. Stir in the Parmesan cheese and toss to combine. Taste, and add salt or more pepper flakes if it needs an extra kick.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees and lightly brush a 9-by-13-inch baking dish or two 8-by-8-inch pans with butter or oil.

Make the crepes: Remove batter from fridge and whisk it briefly to dissolve any lumps. Heat an 8-inch nonstick pan over medium heat.

Add a scant 1/4 cup of batter (just enough to cover the bottom of the pan) and swirl it in a circle to spread a thin, even layer of batter on the bottom and up the sides of the pan.

When crepe edges appear dry, about 30 seconds, use a rubber or offset spatula to carefully flip it over and continue cooking for another minute or so.

Transfer to plate to cool, and repeat with remaining crepe batter. Don’t worry about stacking them; they won’t stick. (If you’re not using right away, cover with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for up to two days.) You should get 13-15 crepes.

Spread 2 generous tablespoons of cheese mixture across each crepe, and roll up burrito style. Spread a layer of vodka sauce in the bottom of the baking pan(s) and place crepes seam-side down on top of sauce. Spread a little more sauce on top and sprinkle with additional pecorino Romano or Parmesan.

Serves 4-6.

– Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette

Homemade cheese and spinach manicotti with a spicy vodka sauce.

Gretchen McKay / Pittsburgh Post-Gazette / TNS